Thursday, January 7, 2010

Creme Anglaise - YOU SHOULD KNOW THIS.



Creme Anglaise - What is it? 

Creme anglaise - translated as 'english cream' - is a simple stove-top custard composed of milk, eggs, sugar, and vanilla. It is considered by many to be an integral formula to the pastry chef's arsenal; it is basic, but its uses are varied.

Creme anglaise is created by infusing vanilla into milk. This milk is then scalded. The eggs and sugar are whipped together, and the milk is tempered into the eggs - beaten in quickly to ensure the eggs do not cook. The mixture is returned to the pot and stirred over heat until it reaches a consistency called nappe, which means, quite simply, that it will coat the back of a spoon. It can also be cooked to a specific temperature - 165 degrees fahrenheit at the least, 180 at the most (165 degrees is the 'instant-kill' temperature for salmonella, while 180 degrees is the temperature at which egg will coagulate.) To test this, the most common process is to dip a wooden spoon into the custard, then run a finger over the back of it and hold it up vertically. If nothing drips onto the cleared line of the spoon, it is cooked enough. Once it is deemed ready, it is taken off the heat and strained over an ice bath to stop it cooking immediately. 

While it is a simple process, creme anglaise takes patience and a bit of experience. It can be made over boiling water for those who fear the likelihood of the eggs curdling on direct heat, but direct heat is a much quicker process. 

Creme anglaise has a variety of uses, its most common being that of a sauce. Unaugmented, it is thought of as a classic 'vanilla' sauce.

Flavors can be added to a creme anglaise, such as chocolate, citrus, or spices. An anglaise is always cooled completely before being stored in the refrigerator; temperatures for saucing applications can vary. 

A creme anglaise is also the basis of most ice creams. Once made, it can be run through an ice cream churn in order to provide what is aptly named 'frozen custard.' There is little to no difference between frozen custard and ice cream. Flavored creme anglaise can be used just as easily to create things like chocolate or mint ice creams; in short, knowing how to make a good creme anglaise means you know how to make a good ice cream base. 

Set custards known as bavarians or bavarois are also based on creme anglaise. A standard creme anglaise recipe is followed - then, while the mixture is still hot, bloomed gelatin is whisked in. Once the desired mold is readied, the mixture is stirred over an ice bath until cool, but not until the gelatin begins to set. It is poured into the mold and chilled until set. Occasionally, whipped cream is folded into the gelatin-augmented anglaise for a lighter consistency.

The possibilities for this humble sauce are endless, and knowing how to whip one up in a pinch is quite useful. There is a certain pleasure in watching the ever-so-slightly-thicker-than-milk sauce rest neatly on a plate, shining under the lights of the room and providing its humble support to the main item. Creme anglaise truly is the stock of the patisserie world.



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